US Well Drillers

Pump Diagnostics & Troubleshooting

Identify well pump issues and find emergency repair specialists.

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1 Quick Diagnostics

If you've suddenly lost water pressure, the issue could range from a simple tripped breaker to a completely burnt-out submersible pump. Use the tool above to select your state and county for local context, or read the common symptoms below.

Symptom No water at all

Start by checking your main electrical panel. Submersible pumps run on a dedicated 220V circuit. If the breaker is tripped, reset it once. If it trips again immediately, do not reset it. This indicates a direct electrical short either in the control box or down inside the well, which requires a licensed pump technician to pull the pump.

Symptom Pump turns on and off every few seconds

This is known as "rapid cycling" and it indicates that the bladder inside your pressure tank has ruptured. The tank is now "waterlogged." A pump is not designed to turn on and off continuously, and if left unchecked, the heat will burn out the pump motor rapidly.

Symptom Water pressure is suddenly low

Low pressure often indicates a failing pump impeller, a partially clogged well screen at the bottom of the casing, or a drop in the local aquifer level. Over time, minerals and sediment can build up on the screen, restricting the flow of water into the pump intake.

Issue Solar Powered or Plug-in Jet Pump not working

For off-grid solar setups, the issue is frequently a faulted DC controller or a drained battery bank, rather than the pump itself. If you have a shallow 110V plug-in jet pump, ensure the GFCI outlet hasn't tripped and that the pump hasn't lost its prime (which happens if a foot valve leaks).

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Safety Note: Because this is a deep well, we are most likely dealing with a submersible. These pumps weigh hundreds of pounds and require a specialized pulling rig. Do not attempt to pull the pump out of the well yourself.
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2 Well System 101

If you recently purchased a rural property or have never lived off-grid, the plumbing system can seem overwhelming. Here is a foundational breakdown of your well system anatomy.

The Anatomy of a Well System

Water is drawn from an underground aquifer, pushed up a drop pipe, and stored inside your home under pressure.

Physical Locations: Your pressure tank and pressure switch are usually located inside the house (in a basement, crawlspace, or dedicated pump house), while the pump itself is typically buried hundreds of feet underground in the yard, marked only by a steel casing cap sticking up above the grass.

The Pump

You likely either have a Submersible Pump or a Jet Pump. Deep wells use Submersible Pumps, which are sealed cylinders that sit at the bottom of the well, pushing water up the pipe. Shallow wells use Jet Pumps, which sit above ground (often in the pump house) and suck water out of the well like a straw.

The Pressure Tank

This is the large blue or grey metal tank inside your home. It contains an air bladder that acts like a balloon. As the pump forces water into the tank, the air compresses, creating pressure. When you turn on a faucet, that compressed air pushes the water out. This prevents your pump from having to turn on every single time you flush a toilet.

The Pressure Switch

This is a small, gray box mounted on the plumbing pipe right near the pressure tank. It tells the pump when to turn on and off. Most residential systems use a "40/60" switch, meaning the pump kicks on when pressure drops to 40 PSI, and shuts off when it reaches 60 PSI. You'll hear a distinct "click" when it activates.

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